A perfect high summer family retreat in Virginia’s unexpected wine country.
The roads leading to Salamander Resort & Spa wind through bucolic countryside. There are vineyards. There are sweet villages with stacked stone fences. There are grazing horses, shiny coats glinting in the sun.
The landscape evokes rarified destinations like the South of France or Northern California. And yet this hotel is nowhere near either of those locales. Instead, visitors find themselves traversing the lesser-known—and less romanticized—town of Middleburg, Virginia (about one hour from Washington, DC).
Yet, while the setting is unexpected, it does not disappoint.
This upscale, 340-acre property with 168 guestrooms and suites—which makes a grand impression from the onset with its meandering manor house and circular drive—first opened in 2013 and has since been beloved for its rare combination of wholesome warmth and impeccable service. “Salamander Middleburg’s location is incredibly unique . . . historic and scenic,” says Ashley Dale, director of spa and wellness. It’s the kind of hidden gem where families, couples and groups of friends return each year, vowing to stay mum lest their sanctuary become overrun. Since opening, it has developed a reputation for its unique equine offerings—including its mascot, a miniature horse named Cupcake. And now, with the unveiling of a new extravagant Champions pool—for everything from lolling in submerged loungers to floating through sound baths—it has upped its ante for high summer fun.
Many of the unique details that set Salamander Middleburg apart can be traced back to owner and CEO, Sheila Johnson, a co-founder of BET and the first Black female billionaire. From the beginning, she has offered something elevated while maintaining authentic character. When she took over the property, for instance, once a farm owned by a World War II fighter pilot, she kept the original name—inspired by the notion that salamanders can walk through fire and survive. Her vision also included an equestrian center, housed in a 14,000 sq. ft. stable just a short walk from the main building, where guests can enjoy lessons, trail rides, pony parties and sometimes even equine mindfulness experiences. A Harry Benson photo exhibit—featuring portraits of everyone from Coretta Scott King to several recent Presidents including Barack Obama—is prominently displayed on one lobby wall.
So, while it’s common for resorts to claim that they offer something for everyone, at Salamander Middleburg, that actually rings true. There’s elevated, but casual fare at kid-friendly Gold Cup Wine Bar, but full tasting menus at fine dining Harrimans Grill down the hall. There’s life-size chess and corn hole on the lawn—plus archery, pickleball, tennis, hiking trails and ziplining for the more adventurous. At the lauded spa, signature services range from restorative CBD body rituals to aromatic scalp treatments to results-driven HydraFacials. And, of course, there’s the sleek new pool with its cabanas and adjacent but separate children’s and adult areas—with glassy infinity effects. “You can spend a day with the family at the pool, ziplining or at the Equestrian Center, but you can also relax at the spa or at a wine tasting in town,” says Dale, director of spa and wellness.
And then there are the scones—signature pecan butterscotch baked goods that are enough to draw crowds of all ages even without the rest. And it’s those smaller offerings that give the truest sense of place.
Of course, sometimes the best thing to do is nothing at all. “I love all of the quiet areas to relax or read a book,” says Dale. “Whether you want to read in the library or take your book and relax in the Culinary Garden or the spa, there is a perfect place for a quiet moment.” And—for many parents in particular—that can be the greatest treat of all.