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Talking Turkeys: The Scoop On Labeling

by Laura Beans

Turkeys have long been a staple of Thanksgiving dinner—as a bigger bird, it is able to feed a large crowd and is traditionally cheaper than duck, goose and other fowl.

This year, when you go to purchase your holiday bird, chances are you’ll run into a lot different labels. Confusing choices even more, some of these stamps of approval are marketing ploys at worst or simply meaningless at best.

Horomone-free is essentially a vanity label—the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) prohibits the use of growth hormones on poultry. A marketing ploy at best, “hormone-free” label means nothing—except that your bird might cost more.

Organic

is the label to look for. USDA certified organic ensures adherence to the National Organic Program. This means that the department has conducted an on-site audit of the establishment, verifying compliance to rules such as providing 100 percent organic, non-GMO feed and managing the poultry without animal byproducts or antibiotics.

No Added Antibiotics is a label that may be used if the producer efficiently proves to the USDA Food Safety and Inspection Service that the birds were raised with no added antibiotics to the animal’s feed or water, or through intra-muscular injections.

All Natural

is used to refer to turkeys that are free of synthetic ingredients, artificial flavoring, preservatives, coloring agents or any other chemicals. But this label only applies to how the turkey was processed, not how it was raised.

Free Range turkeys—not to be confused with the term “Cage-Free” which is nonsense as turkeys raised for meat are not kept in cage—are those that are allowed access to the outside. In the U.S. this is barely defined, so industry is able to exploit the label as they see fit.

Independent organizations often develop certification programs for regulations they feel the federal government fails to mitigate. Oregon Tilth, a non-profit organization co-founded by legendary chef Nora Poullion, has been administering affidavits for organic agriculture since 1974. Animal Welfare Approved, American Humane Certified and grassfed labels are also good to look for.

Whole Foods Market, which sells a range of turkey options, recommends placing your holiday order for a whole organic un-cooked at least two weeks ahead of time to ensure availability and size.

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