With 500 miles of Adriatic coastline in the sun-soaked stiletto of Italy’s boot, Puglia was once one of the country’s most impoverished regions. From its humble origins of cucina povera, the kitchen of the poor, Apulian cuisine is based on simple recipes made with fresh seafood, locally-grown produce, renowned cheeses, and incredible breads.

Known as the “breadbasket of Italy,” Puglia produces more durum wheat than anywhere else in the country thanks to acres of flatlands, an arid climate, and cool sea breezes which provide optimal growing conditions. The Pane di Altamura, from the town of Altamura in central Puglia, is a large round loaf of bread with a thick crust and a soft crumb interior. The thickness of the crust allows it to last longer, making it a favorite of travelers since Roman times. It’s one of only six breads in Italy garnering special DOP (Protected Designation of Origin) status which recognizes food products produced in a specific geographic region using traditional methods. 

Many of Puglia’s popular street foods are also wheat-based such as the Focaccia Barese with tomatoes, olives, and mashed potatoes mixed into the dough, and Panzerotto – a small fried calzone. A ubiquitous snack is Taralli, an oval-shaped snack cracker that can be savory typically with fennel seeds, and eaten as an appetizer with cheese and red wine such as the region’s Negroamaro. Sweet taralli are glazed with sugar and an assortment of fruit flavors.

Cialledda is a salad made from stale bread, salt, olive oil, and tomatoes. This frugal yet filling dish is often eaten as a traditional lunch by local farmers and fishermen.  If you’re a vegetarian, you’re in for a treat as vegetables figure heavily in Apulian cuisine. 

Every Italian region has its pasta shapes and in Puglia, orecchiette reigns supreme. In the capital of Bari’s Old Town, there’s even a street - the Strada delle Orecchiette. The distinctive round, concave shape of the pasta translates into “little ears” and is perfect for capturing sauce with each bite. An iconic Puglian dish is Orrechiette con Cima di Rapemade with local broccoli rabe, anchovies, garlic, red chili flakes, and toasted pangrattato - bread crumbs made from leftover stale bread cooked in olive oil.

There are an estimated 60 million olive trees in Puglia, accounting for roughly 50% of Italy’s olive oil supply. The region’s climate and nutrient-rich soil produce exceptionally high-quality, extra-virgin olive oil with a slightly peppery flavor that is a staple in Apulian cuisine.

Other stars of the culinary cannon are the Pugliese cheeses. Caciocavallo, recognizable by its ball shape strung on a string by its navel, is a hard cheese made from the milk of the rare Podolian cow. Its mild flavor pairs well with fruit and jams, and is delicious when grilled. Puglia is also the birthplace of burrata, a fresh cow’s milk cheese resembling a mozzarella ball but with a soft center mixture of cream and shredded mozzarella known as stracciatella.

Stay at the Masseria San Domenico, a luxury resort in the heart of Puglia, nearby to the Adriatic coast. Its white-washed building stands among the centenarian olive groves, and dates back to the 15th century, when it was used by the Knights of Malta as a watch-tower. Their Thalasso therapy spa offers body treatments utilizing the mineral-rich waters from the sea. Try the Marine Scrub Exfoliating massage with sea salt that eliminate dead cells, improving skin texture and the blood circulation.

My exploration of Puglia’s cuisine unearthed a treasure trove of time-honored dishes transformed by the resourceful use of simple, locally sourced, organic ingredients. Mangiamo!