The drive into Ivins, Utah, feels like you’re cruising on the moon, with wide stretches of desert showing off spectacular red sandstone cliffs rising in the distance and fields of dark lava rock across the ground. Black Desert Resort is located in this moon-like terrain in the Greater St. George area, close to Snow Canyon State Park and within an hour by car to Zion National Park. It’s nicely remote, at least it feels detached from hustle-bustle life, but also right in the middle of some of the most extraordinary natural places to explore.
A few of us came here for a getaway. With a wide mix of activities on offer, this is a place that works especially well for a group of friends. Covering about 600 acres, with much of the land preserved, the outdoors is definitely the star attraction. Mild, sunny weather practically year-round helps with that. One early morning we did yoga on the smooth rocks in Snow Canyon State Park. Another, we were guided through Zion National Park, walking among its hanging gardens and dramatic cliffs, and spotting birds, both enormous and teeny-tiny. It’s easy to arrange guided hikes or e-bike rides through the surrounding landscape, where the Colorado Plateau, Mojave Desert, and Great Basin meet. This is the only place in the United States where all three converge.
Back at the resort, it’s hard to resist lounging in one of the cabanas around the large outdoor pool set against the backdrop of black rock formed from an ancient volcanic eruption that sent lava flowing through the earth. When you’re ready for something more active, the resort has 21 brand-new pickleball courts, and for those who prefer golf, there’s an 18-hole pro course designed beautifully around the natural landscape.
One afternoon we were pampered at the Plume Spa & Wellness, the resort’s 15,000-square-foot spa. The space includes 13 treatment rooms (my massage accomplished much-needed blissful body repair) and an impressive menu of restorative therapies, such as a dry cryo float, hyperbaric therapy, salt inhalation, and Brain Boost, which addresses physical relaxation and mental enhancement.
Black Desert Resort sits in one of Utah’s certified Dark Sky areas, which means the night sky is clear and bright. The resort organizes stargazing sessions where you’ll learn about the constellations from an expert astronomy guide while lying back in ergonomic chairs under cozy blankets, and view galaxies and planets through their telescopes. It is a truly remarkable sight.
There are seven dining venues here, catering to the many moods and tastes of your crew. Casual day-planning breakfasts take place at Latitude, an open-air restaurant with views toward Snow Canyon, while dinner at Basalt is an elegant affair, with easygoing bar bites on the terrace at Flo Bar & Lounge, and burgers and milkshakes at the sports bar, 20th Hole.
The resort’s 447 accommodations are spread across three collections. Most guests stay in the Hotel Collection, which places rooms close to the spa, pool, and restaurants. The Resort Collection offers suites with kitchenettes and more space for groups. There is also the smaller Plume Wellness Collection, located near the spa, where the rooms include circadian lighting, aromatherapy using local botanicals, and wellness-focused amenities.
Black Desert Resort is designed to fit with the environment, using local natural materials, and winning the 2023 Utah Green Building Award for promoting eco-friendly business and community through both innovative and sustainable practices. It’s luxurious and comfortable, so much so that spending a full vacation on the property without running out of things to do is feasible. At the same time, it works equally well as a base for exploring this magical part of the Southwest.