SUMMER 2008

 

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Pg 27 - Ask the Organic Beauty Expert

A new column dedicated to the enhancement of inner and outer beauty.
By Mary Beth Janssen

With such a huge amount of beauty product offerings out there, it can be overwhelming and confusing to wade through them all, and discern which ones are truly safe. Can you provide any guidance?
Yes, many people are becoming more aware of the potential for toxic ingredients in our beauty products. Personal care products are not regulated by the FDA or any other government agency. There are companies using ingredients in their products that are known or suspected to be carcinogens, mutagens, or reproductive toxins. Yet, we'll usually buy these products without questioning the product's safety. Again, it comes back to awareness.
I highly recommend visiting The Campaign for Safe Cosmetics (www.safecosmetics.org). Since 2002, this coalition has been working to protect our health by calling for the elimination of chemicals used in the cosmetics industry linked to cancer, birth defects, and other health problems. How are they doing this? The Campaign is asking cosmetic and personal care product companies to sign the Compact for Safe Cosmetics, a pledge to remove toxic chemicals and replace them with safer alternatives in every market they serve. Signing the Compact has become a badge of sorts—one of integrity and trust. As of January, 2008, over 750 companies have signed the Compact—and that number increases every day! You can view these companies at the Campaign's website.
The Campaign is also working diligently to reform the chemical policies that allow for toxic ingredients in consumer products in the first place.
One of the coalition's founding groups is the Environmental Working Group (www.ewg.org). I encourage you to visit their cosmetic safety database Skin Deep where they pair ingredients in over 25,000 beauty products against 50 definitive toxicity and regulatory databases making it the largest integrated data resource of its kind.
It's encouraging to know that these non-profit organizations are working for safer products and smarter laws that protect our health and our families from toxic chemicals.

I've been enjoying my evening tea ritual with a steaming cup of organic Rooibus tea. Now I'm starting to see Rooibus in more and more cosmetics. What exactly does it do as a cosmetic ingredient?
Rooibus (pronounced roy-boss) or what is also called the Red Bush plant (Aspalathus linearis) is a hardy shrub indigenous to the Cederburg Mountains of South Africa. This sweet, red tea is often called "the miracle tea" for its tremendous healing powers—and is such a delightful choice for an evening tea ritual. It's a great digestive, and is also very relaxing as well as helpful for sound sleep. However, as your question suggests, there is also quite a buzz in the beauty world about its cosmetic applications—especially it's anti-aging properties. Rooibus has significantly high levels of anti-oxidants that help in destroying free radicals that attack and damage healthy cells. The high levels of flavonoids have anti-inflammatory and anti-allergenic properties, with one in particular, aspalathin being used to treat skin disorders like acne, dermatitis and photosensitization. The naturally high levels of alpha hydroxy acids will soothe, smooth and rejuvenate any skin type, but particularly dry, mature skin. In addition, Rooibus has been shown to improve hair growth and condition, such as shine and smoothness. With all of this, is it any wonder that cosmetic formulators see tremendous value in utilizing this ingredient in their skin and hair care products.

Does it really make a difference whether essential oils are organic or not?
Absolutely! Given the aroma, therapeutic quality and powerful healing value of essential oils, whether inhaled, or applied to the skin (remember that your skin is the body's largest organ, and whatever is applied to it has direct entrée to the bloodstream), my preference would always be toward the highest level of purity possible, and that means organic. Essential oils are highly concentrated plant medicine—therefore subject to retaining high levels of contaminants from conventional agriculture methods. Certified organic essential oils are derived from plants that have been grown without the use of pesticides or nitrate-laden fertilizers—instead relying on an eco-management system that maintains the health of plant, soil, and environment. Also consider that essential oil production requires a very large amount of plant material to create even a small quantity of oil. Rose essential oil is a good example. It takes 1000 kilos of rose petals to produce one liter of rose essential oil. Think about how many people it takes to grow and harvest 1000 kilos of rose petals. When grown organically, that's a large amount of people (and their unborn children) that will not be exposed to toxic agricultural chemicals. It's all inter-connected—plants, people, planet. The spiritual aspect of organic encourages us to think in this sustainable, holistic fashion.

Mary Beth Janssen, a leading beauty and wellness expert, is the author of the books Radiant Beauty: Your Healthy & Organic Guide to Total Body Well-Being and Rejuvenation: Spa Secrets for Menopause. She's presently working on her newest book, Pleasure Healing: Sacred Spa Rituals and Mindful Practices for Self-Nurturing. A certified mind-body-health educator for The Chopra Center for Well-Being, Mary Beth is also a certified massage therapist, aromatherapist, herbalist, and yoga teacher. To send her a question, write to beautye@organicspamagazine.com.