Experience local traditions at these UNESCO World Heritage Sites, and touch the spirit and soul of two Southeast Asian cultures
It’s 5:30 a.m. in Luang Prabang, Laos, a town famous for its Buddhist temples and monasteries. In the faint pre-dawn light, I join a group of fellow guests in the lobby of La Résidence Phou Vao Hotel for a short drive to a quiet residential street where, following the lead of the locals gathered nearby, and with the help of a hotel concierge, we roll out mats on the sidewalk, kneel down, open pots of steaming sticky rice prepared for us by the hotel kitchen, and wait.
Soon, out of the darkness, comes a line of saffron-robed monks, each carrying a vase-shaped pot into which we—heads bowed—place a ball of rice from our supply. For the next hour or so, a steady stream of monks and young novices glides silently down the street, collecting rice and offerings from each person for their temples’ communal pots. Called tak bat, this moving daily ritual is the main way in which the monks gather their food for the day—and it is considered a blessing for those who participate in the alms donation.
The chance to experience local traditions like this is a hallmark of the Belmond (formerly Orient-Express) hotel brand, which has properties in diverse locations as Venice, Santa Barbara and Machu Picchu. On a recent trip to Southeast Asia, we checked out two Belmond hotels, both located in UNESCO World Heritage Sites—and linked by short direct flights—for a look at how each is highlighting the sites, soul and spa traditions of their respective destinations.
Siem Reap, Cambodia
The Hotel Ideally located a short walk from the town center and a short drive from the main Angkor Wat temple, the 62-room La Résidence d’Angkor Hotel is a true retreat from the hubbub of this popular tourist town. Rooms are set around a main pool and leafy gardens, and feature private terraces, spa baths and splashes of jewel-toned Cambodian silks.
Though there’s lots going on at the hotel—traditional Apsara dance performances at dinner, cooking classes in the grill pavilion, photo exhibits, talks and the chance to meet with local experts in the breezy cocktail bar—the place never feels crowded. The only problem: It’s nearly impossible to avoid temptation in the lobby boutique, stocked with beautiful locally made home decor pieces, artwork and textiles. residencedangkor.com
The Spa The menu at the recently redone Kong Kee Spa (where four of the six suites have private sauna or steam rooms) evolves based on guest feedback, but the focus is always on treatments that offer relaxation and muscle relief since most guests spend their days climbing up temple stairs and walking around town.
A mix of Balinese, Thai, Japanese and Cambodian techniques and products are used; featured local ingredients include coffee, rice and lemongrass. In the popular Khmer Herbal Healer, a full-body pressure point massage is done with warm towels infused with herbs like turmeric, ginger, nutmeg and clove, while the excellent Ancient Khmer Massage (performed with the guest clothed in loose pajamas) works out all the kinks with deep palm and thumb work and stretching; pair either one with a traditional, congestion-clearing J’Pong steam, infused with kaffir lime, cinnamon, sweet plai and more.
Local Flavor Connect to Cambodia with experiences like:
• Temples, Two Ways You can’t visit Siem Reap without exploring its World Heritage-designated carved temples (though collectively called “Angkor Wat,” there are actually hundreds of temples of varying styles and sizes in the area, dating from the 9th to 14th centuries). The hotel can arrange for private guides to take you to the top spots. But to beat the busloads, splurge for a special La Résidence experience like a sunset helicopter ride over the main temple complex, or a private, early-morning monk’s blessing in one of the deserted forest temples.
• Countryside Day Trip Expat-run, conservation-minded Indochine Exploration (indochineex.com) offers several active excursions, from mountain biking through the forest to kayaking to lakeside villages. We love the half-day “Route 66” trek, which takes you through rice paddies and remote villages to explore crumbling, near-deserted temples, ending with a gourmet picnic lunch.
• Silk Farm Visit There are plenty of artisan workshops in and around Siem Reap, but we particularly love Golden Silk, a countryside collective producing exquisite textiles using traditional Khmer weaving methods. Owner Sophea Oum returned to her native Cambodia after the war, working at refugee camps and founding an orphanage before establishing Golden Silk, which employs former orphans and other disadvantaged locals. The pieces aren’t inexpensive, but after you see the work that goes into them, you’ll understand why. goldensilk.org
• Dine with Purpose The sheer number of trendy cafes, bars and restaurants in Siem Reap can be overwhelming, so La Résidence has created a fun “Mystery Dine Around” package that takes you—via included tuk-tuk transport—to some of their top picks. Guests will enjoy drinks, apps, main courses, dessert and after-dinner drinks at different restaurants, many of which have charitable components. Touich Restaurant, for example, houses and employs orphans and at-risk youths, training them in hospitality and supporting them all the way through college.
Luang Prabang, Laos
The Hotel Originally built for use during the king’s kite-flying retreats (!), this collection of low-slung buildings spread along a hillside was turned into the La Résidence Phou Vao—the town’s first guesthouse—after Laos’ independence. The 32 rooms evoke silted houses, and are done up with gleaming rosewood floors, handcrafted textiles, oversized tubs and traditional wooden day beds on the terraces, overlooking either the old town, the mountains, or the bougainvillea and frangipani of the hotel’s tropical gardens.
Chances are you’ll only spy other guests around the infinity-edge pool, or enjoying the Western-Asian fare at the main restaurant. (Don’t miss delicious Laotian noodle soup at breakfast, spiced to your specifications.) Complimentary shuttle service ferries guests the five minutes to the center of town, where you can pop into the cafes along the Mekong River, bargain at the night market and mingle with the welcoming locals.
residencephouvao.com
The Spa Tucked into the lush landscape, the Mekong Spa’s four treatment pavilions mimic the guestrooms in their use of local woods, textiles and artwork. Facials use Jurlique, the Australian line, while body, bath and massage services incorporate local ingredients like black sesame seeds, rice, green tea and coconut. With advance notice, the steam and sauna can be infused with herbs like kaffir lime and peppermint. One of the most popular treatments is the 90-minute Mo Hom-Indigo Healing Art, which takes its cues from the shamanic healing techniques of the Hmong mountain tribes. The service begins with a full-body application of a heated poultice filled with herbs like camphor, lemongrass and eucalyptus, then continues with a therapeutic massage incorporating lots of palm, thumb and elbow work. As in all treatments at the spa, the therapist starts work on the left foot, to honor the side of the heart.
Local Flavor Along with the morning monk experience, activities that help connect guests to the destination include:
• Mekong River Ride Hop on the hotel’s traditional long-tail wooden boat for a peaceful sail along the Mekong, passing villages and scenic countryside. The half-day trip includes stops in the caves of Pak Ou, home to hundreds of Buddha statues, and the 300-year-old Ban Phanom weaving village, plus a picnic lunch on a deserted sandbar.
• City Sites The hotel can arrange for a guided tour of the Royal Palace Museum, home to the legendary 13th-century Golden Buddha; Wat Xieng Thong, considered Laos’ most historic monastery; and Phousi Stupa, a sacred site at the top of Mount Phousi (the views are worth the hike up).
• Cooking Class Led by members of the hotel’s culinary team, the onsite Laotian cooking class takes place around an open kitchen next to the organic garden. Learn how to make specialties like banana leaf-wrapped fish, sticky rice and spicy curries, then enjoy the dishes during an al fresco lunch.
Credits: all Images courtesy of Orient-Express Hotels