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Pg 28 - Ask the Organic Beauty Expert

Your inner and outer beauty questions answered.
By Mary Beth Janssen

My nutritionist recommends using organic rice bran oil for cooking because of the many health advantages, including a high smoke point. I've also started using rice bran oil as massage oil because of how it makes my skin feel. Can you comment on this? Congratulations on working with a nutritionist who approaches health in a holistic fashion. Yes, rice bran oil is taking the cooking world by storm (my husband swears by it, a classically trained French chef!). It's light, oh-so-delicious flavor can be appreciated in all forms of cooking but especially high heat frying and grilling. Its high smoke (burn) point (490 degrees fahrenheit) means the oil won't smoke or break down into toxic compounds at high temps. Dubbed "the world's healthiest" edible oil, it's not just delicate and flavorful, but can also help lower bad cholesterol (LDL), fight heart disease, enhance the immune system, fight free radicals, and so much more. Rice bran oil is a naturally occurring source of many powerful antioxidants including the Vitamin E tocopherols, tocotrienols, and gamma oryzanol, along with phytosterols and polyphenols-likely a primary element in it's "food as medicine" designation, but also it's profound skin-enhancing and protective qualities.

Organic rice bran oil is one of the richer carrier oils and super-nourishing. It promotes collagen formation, inhibits free radical damage, thus aging, and is superb for treating dry, mature skin. Its B-complex vitamin, phytic acid-helps improve blood circulation and stimulate cell turnover when used topically. Rich in phytosterols, it can help reduce inflammation and soothe discomfort. It truly has one of the softest and most velvety feels amongst carrier oils. And therefore plays a valuable role in personal care products. If I may add, giving yourself a full body massage several times weekly can be one of the most healing practices to add to your practice of self-care. Use organic rice bran oil or any high quality plant oil, add essential oils as desired, then massage your way down your body from your scalp to your toes before showering. Use upward and outward movments on the face, circular motions on the joints and up-and-down movements on the limbs. It's grounding and energizing at the same time, it tones your skin, and provides emoilliency, lubrication, and a moisture boost. And perhaps most importantly, stroking your skin releases a pharmacy of natural feel-good chemicals into the blood stream: natural growth hormones, anti-depressants, tranquilizers, and pain relievers, as well as immunity boosters and circulation promoters. At the very least, massage your scalp, hands and feet at any time of day, or before going to bed. Pure unadulterated goodness-talk about healthy pleasures! Also of note, rice bran contains proteins that help strengthen the hair shaft and prevent split ends. Look for rice bran oil in personal care products as one of many synergistic ingredients.

I am wondering about your take on the proliferation of organic certifications (OASIS, NSF, Ecocert, Soil Association, USDA and the harmonized EU standard) for personal care products. Can you shed any light on the differences?

Yes, this has become a rather sticky subject. Proliferation is indeed happening on a broad scale-with the defining of several of these certifications still in process as we speak. The explosive growth in this marketplace is driving manufacturers to seek organic and natural certification, which is a way for companies to differentiate their products.

And then there is the purchaser of these products-that is, us. With the ever-growing number of pseudo-natural products, we're well advised to become as savvy as possible and also to scrutinize the composition of natural and organic personal care products.

It's no longer sufficient for the words "natural" or "organic" to appear on the label without some form of substantiation. The discerning consumer wishes to know the extent to which a product is natural or organic, leading manufacturers to respond with certified products. And of course, for the purchaser of these products, one would largely hope for common ground amongst the different certifications. However, this remains to be seen.

First things first-regarding the United States. This in from Tom Hutcheson at the Organic Trade Association. Labeling of personal care products in regard to organic agricultural content remains unregulated at the Federal level in the U.S., though ingredients claimed as organic must be certified to the National Organic Program (NOP). Products sold in California with a front-panel label claim regarding organic content must contain at least 70 percent certified organic ingredients.

USDA does not require personal care products making organic claims to be certified (though their organic ingredients must be certified). However, USDA allows personal care products that meet the NOP rule to be certified on a voluntary basis by USDA-accredited certifying agents. This includes products labeled "100 percent organic," "organic," and "made with organic [specified ingredients]." Products labeled "100 percent organic" and "organic" may display the USDA seal.

Naturally, with a global economy, (and to lessen the confusion for the purchaser) it's encouraging to see what the EU has done in creating harmonized standards for natural and organic personal care. These harmonized standards were presented for the first time at the 2008 Natural Beauty Summit America in NYC last May. Many see 2008 as the tipping point for these standards. The exact details of major standards from NSF International (The Public Health and Safety Company) a non-profit, and OASIS (Organic and Sustainable Industry Standards) a trade association, were unveiled at the summit.

The French-based certification body Ecocert, carries out inspections and certification services in over 80 countries outside the EU. Many high-profile companies have launched with the Ecocert label-which has either an organic or a natural certification. In the EU, Ecoccert is presently the leading standard using 10 percent certified organic content as its benchmark for certification. By comparison, OASIS will require 85 perent certified organic content. The British based certification body The Soil Association offers an organic standard, whilst the German-based BDIH proposes a natural standard.

Stay tuned for new developments on natural and organic standards and certification for personal care products in our Winter issue of Organic Spa.

Mary Beth Janssen, a leading beauty and wellness expert, is the author of the books Radiant Beauty: Your Healthy & Organic Guide to Total Body Well-Being and Rejuvenation: Spa Secrets for Menopause. She's presently working on her newest book, Pleasure Healing: Sacred Spa Rituals and Mindful Practices for Self-Nurturing. A certified mind-body-health educator for The Chopra Center for Well-Being, Mary Beth is also a certified massage therapist, aromatherapist, herbalist, and yoga teacher. To send her a question, write to beautye@organicspamagazine.com.